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Lake Garda
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Article
Time to relax... | Once a magnet for writers and the well-heeled, Lake Garda and its environs now offer a warm welcome for travellers of all kinds, as Norman Wright and photographer Clive Nicholls discovered...
Sit at the water’s edge with an incredible cascade of seafood in front of you, try a simple dish of pasta, then, with a sip of full-bodied Valpolicella, look around at the mountains on the far shore, reflected with blue sky and towering white clouds in the mirrored ripple of the water. |
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Feel the warmth of the sun and watch the promenading people in the cobbled streets with higgledy-piggledy buildings in all shades of honey.
It’s easy, then, to understand why Lake Garda has attracted writers, artists and most of Europe’s aristocrats and royals to her perfect shores for the last hundreds of years.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but few have spent time here without realising it is simply one of the most beautiful places in the world. |
One of the most beautiful places in the world... |
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In his travelogue, ‘Twilight In Italy’, D. H. Lawrence wrote of Lake Garda: “The dawns come white and translucent, the lake is a moonstone in the dark hills, then across the lake there stretches a vein of fire, then a whole, orange, flashing track over the whiteness.
“There is the exquisite silent passage of the day, and then at evening the afterglow, a huge incandescence of rose, hanging above and gleaming, as if it were the presence of a host of angels in rapture. It gleams like a rapturous chorus, then passes away, and the stars appear, large and flashing.”
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Lovely views from the ferry... |
Lawrence and other writers, such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Somerset Maugham and Henry James, had to work hard to enjoy Garda and the other lakes around Milan in Northern Italy. They came in from Switzerland and Austria, over passes through the Alps and Dolomites, often on foot, and then through the cornfields, olive and fig groves of Lombardy. |
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It was the route usually followed by the sons and, later, daughters of Britain’s aristocracy as they finished their education with the Grand Tour through Europe. It goes to show that the gap year is no modern phenomenon, although 19th-century tours could last up to eight years!
Churchill came to Garda to paint, write, develop his political plans and to enjoy the food, wine, climate and luxurious surroundings - ‘la dolce vita’.
Now ‘la dolce vita’ isn’t the domain of the rich and famous. We can all sample it. The scenery and atmosphere is open to all, while the food and wine in even the simplest restaurant is magnificent.
Most of the grand hotels from ‘la belle epoch’, which was ended by the First World War, are now very accessible and you can motor around the lake aboard a traditional wooden clipper just like Churchill heading from Sirmione to his favourite villa or to a viewpoint to start a new landscape painting. |
Verona
At around 30 miles long (48 km) and ten miles (16 km) at its widest, Garda is the largest of the lakes to be found around Milan and Verona.
Along with its neighbours, Como and Maggiore, Garda was created by glacial action and has been the scene of some turbulent conflicts.
The Venetians sailed their galleons as far up the river as possible, then moved them over land to the lake before staging a remarkable naval victory. The Romans also once held sway here before the Barbarians swept in from Central Europe. |
One of the many walkways... |
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Nowadays the invaders are mainly English, Dutch and German holidaymakers who find that Garda is an excellent destination in itself, as well as a good base for exploring further afield.
Florence, Venice and Milan are a copule of hours away, as are the Dolomite alpine ranges. There are many organised excursions as well as bus and train links.
Although there is plenty to do on and around the lake, Verona should not be missed. It is the closest city to the lake and the main airport for the region. |
Very entertaining... |
The main treasure of Verona is the Roman arena, that is still used for open-air events, including the renowned summer season of opera.
A large section of the outer wall is still standing and the same Roman entrance gate numbers are still used today. In its heyday the amphitheatre was the third largest in Italy and seated 70,000 people, who would thrill to gladiatorial battles or fights to the death with savage lions.
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Verona bends around the River Adige and in the old city, within the ancient walls, the architecture reveals the various stages of the city’s history. With all that centuries-old building, it is ironic the biggest attractin is a 70-year-old fake!
Verona is the setting for Romeo and Juliet, and so many tourists came looking for traces of the star-crossed lovers, especially the iconic balcony, that 70 years ago the local authorities bowed to overwhelming demand and built one.
Now it’s a must-see for all visitors. You can have your picture taken looking down into the courtyard, where another photo opportunity is a bronze statue of Juliet - apparently cupping her right breast brings you good luck!
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'Oh where for art thou!' |
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If you remember the wonderful 1968 film version of Shakespeare’s tragedy by Franco Zefferelli, in particular the sumptuous locations, then you will have a good idea of the beauty of Verona - the film was shot in the city.
Here are some other suggestions for places to visit during your stay. |
Bardolino
On the south east coast of the lake, this is a lively little town with a busy shpoping area near the little harbour. There are plenty of bars, restaurants and nightlife and in the hills behind Bardolino are many vineyards producing mainly red wine, that takes its name from the town, as well as large olive groves.
You could also visit the Olive Oil Museum on the outskirts of Bardolino, where you will find out how the oil was produced and how methods have changed, as well as offering lots of oils, balsamic vinegars and other souvenirs for sale. One of the best features is the lakeside promenade, with lovely flat walks right along the coast. |
One of the higgledy piggledy streets... | Garda
A comfortable walk along the shore from Bardolino, Garda has a rich medieval history which can be seen in the Romanesque arches and cobbled, winding alleys that characterise the village.
It has superb views across the widest part of Lake Garda and is close to the promontory of San Vigilio, one of Churchill’s favourite spots. The area takes its name from a monk who arrived more than 1,000 years ago. Now it is often referred to as the crocodile, because its shape mimics the reptile lying in the water. There is a villa, hotel and restaurant on the promontory which in recent years has attracted Prince Charles and King Juan Carlos of Spain. |
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Gardone Riviera
An elegant resort with a pretty, leafy, lakefront promenade and a good selection of boutiques and cafe’s, gardone Riviera lies at the northern end of the Gulf of Salo, which is found on the western shore of Lake Garda.
Sheltered by mountains from the more extreme of weather conditions, Gardone enjoys a wonderful, subtropical climate, which is ideal for the rich plant life that can be seen when walking through the lush parks of the resort or on a visit to the fascinating Hruska Botanical Gardens.
A short walk from the village is the peculiar ‘Il Vittoriale’. This was the former home of the author Gabriele D’Annunzio and retreat of ‘Il Duce’, Benito Mussolini. The facist dictator left Vittoriale on his last escape bid, but was picked up by partisans near Lake Como and executed on the spot. the house and gardens are open to the public. |
Limone
This was the favourite of D. H. Lawrence and it’s easy to see why because, with its narrow, winding streets, alleys and traditional stonewalled cottages, Limone rests against the stunning backdrop of Lake Garda’s mountainous, north-western shore. The village itself is set in a secluded cove amid olive groves and fragrant oleander. |
Malcesine
Guarded since the 14th Century by the stone towers of Scaligeri Castle, this is a beautiful little town with cobbled winding streets leading up to the castle itself. The climb is gentle and there are superb walks along the waterfront through the town and into pine woods, with views across to the resorts of Gardone and Limone. There’s also access, via a revolving cable car, to the summit of Monte Baldo. This can be in cloud, but on a clear day the view is unbeatable. There’s a good restaurant and cafe at the top. |
Scaligari Castle. |
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Peschiera
Located at the souther-most point of Lake Garda, the 1st-century town of Peschiera is a ferry link to one of the many other resorts dotted around the lake. It is also the closest resort to the Valpolicella region |
Riva del Garda
This is at the other end of the lake, its most northerly point, and is one of the most popular resorts.
The main reason is the windsurfing - the positioning is absolutely perfect for winds, making Riva del Garda one of the main windsurfing centres in Europe. However, despite the commercialism, the town has retained its charm. |
Sirmione
Sirmione was first appreciated by the Romans for its healing thermal springs, bubbling up naturally from the lake bed, and as the home of Catullo, the Roman poet. The castle, little streets and buildings and the surrounding peninsula jutting out into the southern part of the lake are full of charm. Churchill often stayed here during his painting forays. |
Food and wine
Food in this area is superb, whether it’s the fish and shellfish or fabulous pasta. You really can’t go wrong at whatever price bracket you choose.
Venture south of the lake to find the highly regarded wine area of Valpolicella. We visited the little village of Borghetto on the way, a lovely little place with a fast flowing river rushing through it and a host of colourful hanging baskets. |
Plenty of little shops... | We had travelled to Garda with Thomson Lakes and Mountains...
(www.thomsonlakesandmountains.co.uk), which also incorporates Crystal Holidays, and Thomson run an excursion to Cantina I Molini near Custoza. Here, winemaker Simone Rossi makes Valpolicella, Bardolino reds and a couple of whites. There’s a tour of the winery after a gentle walk through the vines and then a tasting and buffet in the shade close to the old farmhouse and restaurant. A beautiful setting for an informal tasting that won’t make anyone feel uncomfortable, even with no knowledge of wine.
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If you are a bit more of a wine buff a visit to Serego Aligheri will be a highlight, too. It is the oldest vineyard in Valpolicella, dating back to 1353, and producing great wines. Again, there’s a tour of the winery and a more formal tasting in their cellar-door shop. |
Weather
Weather around Garda is mild from early Spring and late into October. Although it can be warm during summer the lake and mountains close by limit the extremes. They do, however, make for unpredictable, fast-changing conditions. Rainfall in summer is usually limited.
Days often start very still, but at around midday, uncannily, a breeze gets up. Watch the windsurfers for confirmation. They will be lazing in the late morning sun one minute with the lake a mirror. Just before 12 they begin to put their wetsuits on and prepare their boards and sails. As if by magic there’s suddenly a chop on the water and, hey presto, the brightly coloured sails are tearing up and down.
Tip: May and September are great times to visit to enjoy mild sunny weather and fewer crowds. |
Magical... |
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