Poetry, gardens and some of Britain’s most spectacular coastal scenery will entrance the visitor to Pembrokeshire and its neighbours, as Norman Wright discovered.
South-west Wales is one of Europe’s most interesting corners, with a spectacular coast and a green and wooded interior that the tourist authorities have christened One Big Garden. The area is so blessed with beautiful scenery it’s good to have a theme to help decide where to go and what to see. We were based in the little town of Saundersfoot, with its superb stretch of sand and little harbour. From there it is easy to wander east to Laugharne and west into Pembrokeshire. | 
Saundersfoot |
|
| National Park
Pembrokeshire, bordered by the sea on three sides, has a coastline that stretches over 186 miles. The entire coastal strip, the Preseli Hills and an area of estuary called the Daugleddau, form the only National Park in Britain that is predominantly coastal. The natural flora and fauna are abundant and the landscapes spectacular. With some of Britain’s best beaches, and more seaside awards than any other county, plus picturesque towns and villages, Pembrokeshire has long been a magnet for artists, travellers, pilgrims and outdoor enthusiasts.
The county also has a rich and varied past. The Preseli Hills contributed some of their stones to the construction of Stonehenge, St David’s is Britain’s most ancient cathedral settlement and Pembroke Castle is the most famous of the area’s many medieval monuments.
The various tourist organisations in this region have got together to attract visitors to the One Big Garden. From the Gower peninsula west into Carmarthenshire, Pembrokeshire and Ceredigion you’ll find many fascinating gardens, all worth visiting, and some with unusual aspects. |
|
Bosherton
Of all the gardens we visited, however, the most distinctive were the lily ponds at Bosherton in Pembrokeshire. Ponds are a bit of a misnomer, as they are more like lakes! But they are full of lilies, and there are beautiful path walks all around. The place is teeming with water life - superb dragonflies and broods of moorhen chicks clambering over the lily pads make a sunny afternoon here with a picnic a tranquil and enticing prospect. |
Bosherton ponds |
|
The Boathouse | Dylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas is recognised as one of Wales’ greatest literary talents and had such a turbulent life that there is still plenty left to experience in a Dylan Thomas trail from Swansea through Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire out to New Quay on Cardigan Bay. The poet’s home at Laugharne is an unmissable part of the trail, and the Boathouse remains precariously balanced halfway down the rocky cliffs. You reach it via a path around the coast and the building has a little shop and is preserved just as it was for the family’s life there. But the most fascinating part of the tour is his writing shed, really a garage looking out across the bay. It’s everything you would predict of a hard-living artistic genius, down to the wastepaper basket overflowing with discarded drafts! |
|
Other writers
The walk around the path also leads to Laugharne Castle, home in Dylan Thomas’s heyday to author Richard Hughes. Other writers covered in the tourist authority’s brochure include the famous and the more obscure - Sir Kingsley Amis, Alexander Cordell, Iris Gower, Russell T Davies, Caradoc Evans, Gillian Clarke, Brian John and Stevie Davies.
Of course, another reason for a visit is to enjoy the sheer beauty of the area’s scenery. The unspoilt Carmarthenshire countryside is truly stunning, with the Black Mountain in the east, long sandy beaches, including Laugharne, to the south, and wonderful river valleys to the north and west. |
Dramatic castles
Carew - One of Pembrokeshire’s finest, dramatically located on the shore of the millpond. Originally a Norman stronghold, later converted to a grand Elizabethan manor before succumbing to the ravages of the Civil War. A programme of events runs throughout the summer months.
www.carewcastle.com |
|
|
| Cilgerran
Near the northern border of Pembrokeshire, Cilgerran Castle stands majestically at the top of a large gorge overlooking the Teifi river. Fishing by coracle used to take place in the river below and the coracle races each summer are worth a visit.
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk
www.nationaltrust.org.uk |
|
Llawhaden
Situated along the (imaginary) Landsker Line, which formerly divided the Welsh-speaking north from the English south of the county, this castle stands on the site of an earlier ring motte. Its purpose was to protect the estates of the Bishops of St David’s.
www.cadw.wales.gov.uk |
|
|
| Manorbier
Manorbier - Its quiet location overlooking the sandy beach caused Gerald the Welshman (Giraldus Cambrensis) to describe the castle as ‘the pleasantest spot in all Wales’. |
|
Haverfordwest
Haverfordwest - This early 12th-century castle dominates the town’s skyline. Only the shell remains, but the old prison and police station inside the walls house the county’s archives and an adjacent building is the town museum.
www.haverfordwest-wales.info/vis_home.asp |
|
|
| Picton Castle and Woodland Gardens
Built in the 13th century, the castle has been the home of the Phillips family for generations and is set in 40 acres of magnificent gardens. There’s also a shop selling plants from the nursery and an art gallery.
www.pictoncastle.co.uk |
|
Pembroke
This imposing Norman castle, on the banks of the River Cleddau is famed for its Great Keep, one of the finest examples in Britain. It was the birthplace of Henry VII, who founded the Tudor dynasty.
www.pembrokecastle.co.uk |
|
|
| Tenby
Overlooking the harbour, the now-ruined castle and the well-preserved town walls with their distinctive Five Arches formed the main defences of Tenby.
www.virtualtenby.co.uk |
|
Glorious gardens
Colby Woodland Gardens - Located in a tranquil, secluded valley, this eight-acre informal woodland garden was created in the early 20th century and is now run by The National Trust. The extensive collection of rhododendrons and azaleas is one of the finest in Wales. The attractive walled garden features a gothic style gazebo, and a themed sculpture trail is centred around carved oak benches depicting wildlife found in the garden. There are a variety of walks on open and wooded paths with opportunities to admire the carpet of bluebells that follow the daffodils in spring. Magnificent summer hydrangeas precede a rich display of autumn colour.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk |
|
|
| Begelly Park Gardens and Tea Rooms
Ken and Margaret Hester moved to Wales from Hertfordshire and created a fishing lake. One day Ken saw the overgrown house and grounds for sale and convinced his wife it was a project they could manage, so they sold the lake and started work. Now Ken has created magnificent gardens, including a Japanese garden and water features, in 12 acres of natural meadow bounded by a stream. Margaret’s superb tea room sells a delicious selection of cakes and snacks. |
|
Manorwen Walled Garden
This one-and-a-half acre garden and walled kitchen garden dates back to 1750 and has been extensively restored to offer a huge variety of interest in a comparatively small space. The grounds contain a late 18th-century summerhouse with lovely views across Fishguard Bay. |
|
|
| Hilton Court Gardens
Nine acres of woodland and lakes in a sheltered hollow above Nolton Haven. Entrance to the garden is via a cobbled courtyard of converted stone buildings that accommodate craft workshops, a garden centre, restaurant and shop.
www.hiltongardensandcrafts.co.uk |
|
Upton Castle Gardens
Delightful gardens in 35 acres of parkland with a wide variety of trees and shrubs on thickly wooded slopes with views over the waters of Milford Haven. There are lovely woodland walks, formal terraces, rose gardens, a 13th-century chapel and a Lovers Lane that winds its way to the shores of the Carew River.
www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk |
|
|
| Bosherton Lily Ponds
This tranquil and picturesque branched lake, which spans three valleys, was created in the 18th century by blocking a series of streams and creeks with sandbars. There’s an abundance of birdlife from coots to kingfishers, plus dragonflies and damselflies during the summer months. The spectacular displays of waterlilies are at their best in June.
Located just south of Pembroke. |
|
Penlan Uchaf Gardens
Three acres of landscaped gardens in the beautiful Gwaun Valley, with fast-flowing stream and breathtaking views of the Preseli Hills. Notable for its raised herb and wildflower garden, 27m sweet pea pergola, alpines, herbaceous borders and more than 30,000 spring bulbs.
www.penlanuchaf.co.uk |
|
|
| Bro Meigan Gardens
Six acres of varied gardens, including formal lawns and herbaceous borders, orchard, wildflower meadow, a Gothic garden, shell grotto, topiary garden and turf maze, together with an incredible range of plants collected from around the world.
www.bromeigan.co.uk/gardens.html |
|
Other attractions
Caldey Island - Home of Cistercian monks who farm this tiny island and make Caldey Island perfume and chocolate. There is also a medieval priory, lighthouse, post office/museum, gift shop and tea garden - as well as a glorious sandy beach, pleasant walks and spectacular views.
www.caldey-island.co.uk |
|
|
| Castell Henllys
This is a reconstructed Iron Age hill fort. Excavation findings have enabled the National Park Authority to rebuild roundhouses and other buildings on their original foundations and recreate life as it was 2000 years ago.
www.castellhenllys.com |
|
Tenby Museum and Art Gallery
This award-winning museum is one of the oldest independent museums in Wales. Permanent displays include archaeology, geology and the maritime history of South Pembrokeshire. The Wilfred Harrison Gallery houses a collection of works by locally-born artists including Gwen John, Augustus John and Nina Hamnett.
www.aboutbritain.com/TenbyMuseumAndArtGallery.htm |
|
|
| Coracle Centre and Mill, Cenarth
Coracles from all over Britain and abroad, with a coracle workshop and shop. Admission also includes the restored flour mill in its dramatic location above Cenarth Falls.
www.coracle-centre.co.uk |
|
Gun Tower, Pembroke Dock
A martello tower built to protect the Naval dockyard, now refitted as it would have looked 100 years ago. |
|
|
| Scolton Manor House Country Park
Victorian manor with ‘upstairs, downstairs’ exhibits and historical artefacts, including a steam train, smithy and wheelwright’s shop. The surrounding country par is open all year and hosts events in the summer.
www.aboutbritain.com/ScoltonVisitorCentre.htm |
|
Nant-y-Coy Mill
A restored 14th-century corn mill in a picturesque spot below Great Treffgarne rocks. There’s a nature trail alongside the stream that powers the mill, small museum, craft shop and tea room.
www.nantycoy.co.uk |
|
|
| Pembrokeshire Motor Museum
A unique range of locally-owned veteran, vintage and classic cars, motorcycles and bikes, plus a restoration workshop.
www.pembsmotormuseum.co.uk |
|
Flora and fauna
The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is very easy to enjoy, accessible at almost any point in its 186-mile (298km) length, with walks to sandy beaches, cliffs, little inlets or tiny harbours. |
|
|
Kittiwake | Spectacular birdlife
The bird life is spectacular. St David’s Head and Strumble Head feature kittiwakes, Manx shearwaters, razorbills and guillemots. Peregrines and choughs breed along the coastal cliffs, and inland, in the valleys, you can see a host of species, including lapwings and wheatears. |
|
Seals, dolphins, whales
Atlantic grey seals are plentiful along the coast, especially on Ramsey Island, which has one of our largest breeding colonies. You may also be lucky enough to spot porpoises, bottle-nose dolphins and minke whales offshore. |
Minke whale |
|
Thrift | Flowers
Bluebells fill the woodlands in spring and a beautiful array of seaside wild flowers can be found on the springy grass clifftops. White-flowered sea campion, spring squill, pink thrift and gorse decorate the National Park. |
|
