This is the first in an exclusive series by David Motion where he offers you an insight into the life and experiences of a wine expert. He begins with his travels to Tuscany -
''Oh my god. It''s fair to say the charm of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano had passed us by. Until now. We had tasted relentlessly and in every conceivable style, traditional, modern, very modern and so on. We were in the brightly-lit, trestle-tabled ''La Brocca d''Oro'', the only Trattoria open in January in spa town Chianciano Terme, Montepulciano''s neighbour.
We told our young host Leonardo that we had an appointment with Boscarelli the following morning and asked him what he recommended we drink tonight. He said ''drink the Boscarelli. There''s nothing better.'' Alright then. The bottle came, was decanted. We tasted. Incredible restraint, nothing remotely showy. It was still in the dressing room. It drew us in. After 30 minutes it was in the wings. Then, a gently rising crescendo. After 60 minutes it was like crashing waves. Magnificent. Such elegance, such restraint, such class. Vino Nobile almost twice the price of the others and ten times as good. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005, Podere Boscarelli 23.99.
We were also in Tuscany in search of the Holy Grail - honest, enjoyable Chianti. Too often it can be hard, metallic and mean at any price level. Not convinced we''d find it easily in the Chianti Classico zone, we started on the fringes.
The Piazzini family have two estates, one within the Chianti Classico, the other high up in the hills in the Chianti Montespertoli just south of Florence. The original building dates back to 1700. They run a very arty pizza restaurant on the first floor of their winery. We were delighted by their fleshy, affordable Chianti Montespertoli, a classic blend of mainly Sangiovese, with a splash of Canaiolo. Chianti Montespertoli ''Torrato'' 2006, Fattoria Vicchio 8.99
We often sniff out great wines in local restaurants and in Italy have come to rely on the Osterie d''Italie Guide by Slow Food Editore for our restaurant choices. We had a fabulous meal in Florence in the unassuming and excellent Trattoria Tre Soldi Via D''Annunzio.
As usual in Italy, the best things are dishes that seem incredibly simple, dull even, on the menu. A plate of fat pasta with vegetable sauce, braised endive and radicchio with salt and olive oli, a tagliata (thinly sliced local fillet steak) - all delicious and washed-down with a more-ish savoury-juicy local Chianti Ruffina Reserva 2003 by Dreolino. So more-ish that next morning we hot-footed it out North-Eastwards to see Dreolino. Their labels are unlikely to win Graphics Awards and yet their wines are honest, breezy. Simply enjoyable. Chianti Ruffina 2006 11.99, Chianti Ruffina Riserva 2003 17.99, both by Dreolino.''
David Motion is owner of The Winery, 4 Clifton Road, London W9 1SS
For more information visit www.thewineryuk.com
www.thewineryuk.com
Come back next month for Tuscany part two.