Having travelled the world for Exxon, Franco and Franca Gatteschi thought they''d had enough of jet-setting and bureaucracy and that they''d retire to the hills around Gaiole. They bought Podere Ciona from the monastery. Oddly, there were very few vines as the monks just kept sheep and pigs. The Gatteschis then thought they''d start an Agriturismo and maybe plant some vines - just to stop them getting bored. Some retirement! There''s no getting away from the paperwork and we enjoyed Franco''s enthusiastic rant about Italian bureaucracy. We can almost picture him as one of those guys who move into the hills and forests of Montana. The similarity ends there. Instead of trapping meat and law-enforcers they run cookery classes and make modern, silky wines. A beautiful Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 19.99, their entry-level Rosso called Montegrossoli 2006 11.99 and a marvellous Merlot Le Diacce 2004 19.99.
The history of Tuscany drips with jealousy and blood. La Marcellina is named after Marcello, the first owner of Fabio Castellacci''s house back in feudal times. He was given a lookout tower at the bottom of the hill by the Sire of Panzano Castle for a ‘special favour’. We take this to mean murdering someone. Wind forward 300 years and the farm belongs to Fabio''s Grandfather, the baker and grocer of Panzano, who started making wine as a hobby. Wind forward another 50 and Fabio is making some charming, pure Chianti with a light, assured touch. From his Ser Marcello Rosso 2006 12.99 up to his Sassocupo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 22.99 they are delicious.
An hour south of Siena is the hilltop town of Montalcino, home of Brunello. We like our Brunello subtle and elegant, from the cooler northern slope up to the town. The southern vineyards get too hot, too ripe.
"Brunello for the people!" For some reason, this phrase stuck in our minds. Caterina di Carli was talking about her Rosso di Montalcino and how she puts just as much effort into her Rosso as her Brunello. Caterina has been making the wine since she inherited the small estate from her father who was a full-time lawyer with a Brunello making hobby. He pretty much despatched his entire output himself, which might have accelerated his rather premature demise. The style is unreconstructed traditional. She uses wild yeasts – something we have rarely seen outside of Bio-Dynamic (mega-organic) white wine-making. This can give some challenging aromas – exciting, raw and dangerous. In the mouth they are elegant and pure. No trace of oak. Just bright, almost breezy fruit. "Long live the People! Let them drink good Brunello!" Rosso di Montalcino 2005, Il Colle 15.99, Brunello di Montalcino 2002, Il Colle 27.99
Canalicchio''s Nonno Pacenti was one of the first dozen growers to start the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino in 1966, to raise the flag of Brunello above the parapets. Things have moved on since then. The reputation of Brunello now jostles with Barolo for primacy as Italy''s finest red and Nonno''s grandsons are running the Canalicchio show. Their wines are enigmatic. Rich and sumptuous, yet with a dark twist. Rosso di Montalcino 2006, Canalicchio di Sopra 17.99, Brunello di Montalcino 2003, Canalicchio di Sopra 38.99
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